Naya Kanga details

May 2005

Height : 5846m (19,171 ft)

Location : Langtang, Nepal

First climbed : Unknown
Route Description
Day 1: Kathmundu (1,300m) to Syabrubesi (1,460m), 9hrs

This is a 10hrs drive to the starting point of the trek. The first half of the distance involves going down to 400m on tarred road to Trisuli River. The tarred road runs parallel to the river until it reaches the town of Trisuli. After which the vehicle has to go on gravel, dirt road before ascending. The rest of the journey will be very bumpy which seems to be meant for 4-wheel drive. It is amazing how the rickety local bus is able to take this punishing road and reach the destination without any mishap. In this small town, there is electrical supply and there is even telephone service in one of the hotels.

Day 2: Syabrubesi (1,460m) to Lama Hotel (2,440m), 8hrs

Although Nepal is famous for its snow mountains and high altitude, this part of the journey will pass through tropical forest with dry leaves littering the narrow trail. The trail runs beside Lantang Khola (River) and the ascent is gradual with short stretches of steps and steeper sections. There is no electrical supply at Lama Hotel but there is solar hot shower.

Day 3: Lama Hotel (2,440m) to Langtang (3,500m), 8hrs

From Lama Hotel towards Langtang, the vegetation changes from tropical forest to coniferous forest at Riverside Hotel. The coniferous made way to montane shrubs as Langtang comes within sight. Some sections of the route are long and steep. Along the way, there is am army check-post at Ghoretabela where visitors need to sign-in and have their permits checked.

Langtang is quite a big settlement compare to other settlements found along the way. Many guesthouses have electric power supply and solar hot shower. There are many Mani walls along the road. There are a few slopes that go up to about 3700m to meet the steep vertical walls that flank the left side of the settlement, which is good for acclimatizing.

Day 4: Langtang (3,500m) to Kyanjin Gompa (3,850m), 3hrs

After an initial ascend, the rest of the way is gentle until Kyanjin Gompa. It is also closer to Kyanjin Gompa when Naya Kanga can be seen on the right side of the trail. Kyanjin Gompa is a very good place for acclimatization. There is Kyangin Ri (4665m) and Tsergo Ri (4895m) where climbers can do their acclimatization. The first summit of Kyangin Ri at 4350m is marked with prayer flags and the second summit, more than an hour away is at 4665m. Although there is no permanent snow cover during late spring, snowing can still be expected.

Kyanjin Gompa is a good place to rest, as there is electric supply here and solar hot shower. There is also a heli-pad if there is a need for an evacuation. Any climbers that wish to climb the trekking peaks and expedition peaks need to have their permits checked here.

Day 5: Acclimatization day

Day 6: Kyanjin Gompa (3,850m) to Naya Kanga Basecamp (4,200m), 2.5hrs

Rather than going up by the usual East face of Naya Kanga via Branchen Kharka, another way is by the North face of the mountain. The trail to the basecamp passes through Juniper forest and montane shrubs. The basecamp is sheltered on three sides and there is a small stream with flowing water. However, the liquid water may sometimes dry up if there is not enough melt snow higher up. Patches of snow can be seen at the basecamp even during late spring. As the highcamp is about 3hrs of ascend away, it is possible to go up to the highcamp for acclimatization.

Base camp

The basecamp is located is located behind the ridge as indicated by the arrow.

Day 7: Acclimatization

Day 8: Basecamp (4,200m) to Highcamp (4,600m), 3hrs

Even at late spring, the highcamp is built on snow. Although one can avoid the snow for the initially half of the journey to the highcamp, the second half of the journey involves traversing a snow slope of about 40 degrees gradient to a small moraine ridge. The leeward side of the moraine ridge consists of rocks and boulders. One has to descend by the leeward side of the ridge before reaching the snow-covered highcamp.

Route to ABC

The route from the basecamp to highcamp involves going pass a moraine ridge covered with snow on the windward side.

Day 9: Acclimatization

 

Day 10: Highcamp (4,600m) to Summit of Naya Kanga (5,846m) and back to Basecamp (4,200m)

 

As the basecamp is not far from the highcamp, it is advisable to retreat to the basecamp if the weather is not favorable for summit attempt next morning. The way to the summit involves going via an avalanche path before joining the North-east ridge. Solid ice-balls the size of a basketball can be seen just before going up the North-face of the mountain. There is a 2hrs trek through relatively easy slopes to reach the foot of the face of the mountain. After which, there is a long 45 degrees slope to ascent before reaching steeper slopes of more than 60 degrees. Some fix ropes maybe be useful although not necessary to reach the North-east ridge. The journey from the highcamp to the ridgeline is expected to 8-10hrs. From the ridge to the summit of Naya Kanga is expected to take another half to one hour.

highcamp to the summit ridge.

Route from the highcamp to the summit ridge.

Equipments used

Equipment Quantity Description/Model Remarks
Clothings
Polar Fleece 200 1 Nepali thick fleece
Down Jacket 1 Kathmundu “Goose down”
Thermal Long-johns 3 pairs Polypropylene, wool
Light weight fleece pants 1 Nepali fleece
Gortex Jacket 1 Mammut
Gortex Pants 1
Footwear
Mountaineering boots 1 pair Salomon SM 9
Trek-in boots 1 pair
Woolen socks 2 pairs
Socks inner liner 2 pairs
Sandals 1 pair
Gaiters 1 pair
Gloves
Fleece gloves 1 pair Pro CAM-FIS, Polartec
Inner liner gloves 2 pairs Polypropylene
Waterproof ski gloves 1 pair The North Face Gor-tex
Headwear
Sunhat 1
Fleece hat 1 Nepali fleece hat
Balaclava 1 Mammut Facemask
Sleeping accessories
Sleeping bag 1 Down fill weight 600g
Sleeping pad 1
Mattresses 1 Provided by agent
Eye wear
Sunglasses 1 Addidas Evil Eye Pro, with space lens
Snow goggles 1 Oakley “O” Frame
Hydration
1L Bottle 1 SIGG
0.6L Bottle 1 SIGG
Neoprene insulating pouch 2 SIGG One for each bottle
Climbing Equipment
Climbing Helmet 1
Crampons 1 pair Rent in Nepal
Ice hammer 1 Rent in Nepal
Ice axe 1 Rent in Nepal
Climbing Harness 1 Petzl Corax
Belaying device 1 Camp Shell ATC
Ascender 1 Jumar
Locking Carabineers 5 2 pear, 3 standard
Snap Links 3
Prussik slings (5-7mm) 3 Beal 1 x 2m; 1 x 5m; 1 x 0.5m
Slings (20mm) 2 Beal 1 x 1m, 1 x 2m
Tape (25mm) 1 3m
5m Cordilac 1 4mm, Aramid
Misc
65L Expedition backpack 1 Lowe alpine Frontier 65 +15
Duffle Bag 1
40L Daypack 1 Salomon SK40+10
Pocket Knives & Tools 1 Richartz maxi 7 Maybe better to get one with pliers and screw drivers
Watch 1 SUUNTO Vector Excellent to have, got altimeter which is very useful
Trekking pole 1 pair Komperdell Northern Light
Headlamp 1 Petzl Tikka Bring extra batteries
Personal Care
Sun block 1 Hamilton Sportblock SPF70
Lip Screen 1 Chap Stick ULTRA SPF 30
First Aid kit 1
Toiletries 1 set
Toilet Paper 1 roll
Pee bottle 1 Nalgene Need at least 1L bottle
Umbrella 1
Washing powder 1
Clothes hanger 3
Nail clipper 1
Shaver 1
Body powder 1
Repair Kit 1
Camera 1 Bring extra batteries
Nutrition
Vitamin C Redoxin
Group stores
High altitude tents 2-men 3 Vango imitation tents Provided by agent
Fixed Ropes 100m Nylon ropes Provided by agent
Dynamic ropes 60m
Kerosene stoves and fuel Provided by agent
Cooking and eating utensils Provided by agent
Group first Aid Kit 1 Complete with medications
Ice Screw 2
Snow stake 4

Costs

Description Cost Remarks
Travel
Singapore to Kathmundu and back S$816 per person Thai airway including Singapore airport tax and misc charges
Nepal Airport Tax (International) Rs1130
Nepal Tourism service fee Rs565 pay together with airport tax
Permits
Visas S$65 per person
Trekking peak fees US$350 1 to 4 person
Package Costs for 2 person
Climbing Sherpa and equipment cost US$200
Local transport (Airport transport, KTM-SHABRU-KTM) US$55
2 nights Potala guest house (Twin sharing) US$30
National Park Fee US$70
15 Days expedition with tea house trek US$1152
Exclusion

  • Lunch & dinner while in Kathmandu
  • Personal clothing and all sorts of Climbing Equipment (except ropes)
  • Travel & Medical Insurance.
  • Rescue evacuation in case of emergency.
  • Expenses of personal nature.
  • Maoist Payment (per person)
AIA S$118 per person For 22 days
Tippings per crew member
Summit bonus for guide US$100
Sirdar US$70
Chief cook US$30
Assistant climbing guide US$30
Porters US$1 per porter per day of trek 4 porters

Exchange rate:

1 Sing Dollar : 40 Nepali Rupee (Rs)

1 Sing Dollar : 0.556 US Dollar (US$)

Note: Although equipments can be rented in Nepal, it is still better if you bring your own equipment as those over there are quite old and may not be that safe to use.

 
Medicine
The following are the medicine used during the expedition. It is important that all the members in the team are aware of how to use the appropriate medicine. Where possible, the type of medicine, its usage and dosage should be clearly labeled on the medicine.

Diarrhoea

  • Loperamide (Stops diarrhoea)
  • Charcoal pills
  • Ciprofloxacin (antibiotic)

Vomiting

  • Maxalon (Good for AMS with nausea)

Fever

  • Panadol
  • Voltaren 50mg

Sorethroat

  • Danzen (Anti-inflammatory)
  • MAC lozenges

Cough

  • Strepsil
  • Dhasedyl cough syrup

Incessant Cough

  • Codipront
  • Venolin inhaler

Pain

  • Panadol
  • Voltaren SR 100mg
  • Voltaren 50 mg

Gastric

  • Antacids

AMS

  • Diamox

Contacts
Nepal Agent:

Chomolhari Trekking

Mr. D. B. Koirala – MD

P.O. Box # 5619, Durbar Marg, KTM

Tel: 231039

Fax: 222422

E-mail: db_chomotrek@infoclub.com.np

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